The number one enemy to take pleasure and
keep a bike player is the weight.
The LIFT MTB philosophy is to have a light kit, to have the same capabilities as your classic bicycle.
The LIFT kit is powerful, about 90 N.m has 110 N.m has the wheel. (See table below for more precision)
But, we do not want to goes into the excess of selling a littel off-road motorcycle
We have developed a system as close as possible to a bike at a reasonable price while remaining light.
This is what best suits the sensations we are looking for on a bike and the philosophy we have of the electric bike kit !
Many brands announce figures that are difficult to verify, and unfortunately in the minds of some it is a can who will display the biggest couple who will have the best kit ...
A torque calculator incorporates a lot of variable that the seller can put forward in that content to put only a vague value (if possible higher than the other brands ...) that only a bench test could objectively validate. (test in process).
With lift-mtb you can easily change the torque to the wheel or the top speed of your bike if you changing the primary transmission .
See the theoretical table below, to take account of the various parameters that affect the torque.
This table is only for the people who have a good knowledge, if you are not technical enough to understand it, tell you that the original ratio will be probably perfect for you !
Concerning the constraints on the transmission:
We did many tests related to the constraints on frame and the engine mount and drew a lot of test pieces and did a lot of simulation, it turns out that the constraints are quite low in reality .
Indeed the peak power developed by the removable electric motor for bike will be significantly less than the strength developed by a cyclist at 100% of its power .
A cyclist who on a few pedal strokes during a sprint will pull hard on the handlebars and push hard on the pedals will put enormous strain on the frame in torsion, and traction on the transmission.
On the contrary, the electric mtb engine like ours at a regular pace, transmits a power much lower than the maximum power of the cyclist, but will transmit this net of power in a constant way, limited only by the autonomy of the battery li-ion .
The motor give an average power transmitted to the crank, that improves the general performance of the cyclist over a whole effort, but without the high power peaks on the transmission does not however, it is higher than when the cyclist accelerates fully in sprint.
95% of users use the electric MTB lift-mtb engine to climb at a good pace, and do not spend their time sprinting, adding their maximum power to that of the engine, the wear rate becomes equivalent to wear normal for a user who would be in better shape than you and who would simply be able to keep up a steady pace longer than you.
Certain parts of the transmission will have more constraints because you logically ride more and further and longer, but it remains in the norm, and will match the rate of wear of the transmission expected by manufacturers like shimano or Sram.
A more powerful kit has many disadvantages:
-You will be overweight: the weight will double easily (up to 5 kg more).
-You will consume more, you will be obliged to increase the weight and volume of the batteries (passing ex 2.4kg to 4.8kg in the bag)
-You will be more penalized in the pedaling parts and will take less pleasure in downhill given the overweight.
-You will be more dependent on assistance if the battery is empty.
-The transmission of your bike will not be adapted. The wear rate will be very high with great risks of chain breakage, breakage of the freewheel body, etc.
Certainly some parts of the transmission will have more constraints, because you will logically drive further and further and for longer. But as seen above this remains in the standard, and will correspond to the wear rate of the transmission provided by the manufacturers, so from our point of view not necessarily need a reinforced chain type VAE, it should preferably not use very high-end chains sometimes openwork (as in the photo opposite). A more basic and slightly heavier chain is generally more resistant and sufficient.
Certainly some parts of the transmission will have more constraints, because you will logically drive further and further and for longer.
But as seen above this remains in the standard, and will correspond to the wear rate of the transmission provided by the manufacturers, so from our point of view not necessarily need a reinforced chain type VAE, it should preferably not use very high-end chains sometimes openwork (as in the photo opposite).
A more basic and slightly heavier chain is generally more resistant and sufficient.